Post by Jonny - SZ#03 on May 18, 2011 1:41:20 GMT
Hi everyone,
Jonny here! How's tricks you lovely bunch? Originally this was a tip on hopper jams but it seemed fitting to use it as a general compilation of tips by our regular players. If anyone has any ideas they'd like to share in future by all means post up below, if the group like it I'll make a point of editing this original post to include said tip.
Thankies folks, Jonny
Hopper/Loader Jamming?
The last few Reball sessions a couple of us experienced some serious jamming problems with our loaders. If you happen to have any trouble with reballs (or cheap paint for that matter) feeding slow or jamming the following is a good option.
When you're off the court or field take a pea sized amount of gun lube on your finger (I'm talking the smallest amount will suffice, like... a midget garden pea amount). Evenly rub it over the surfaces which see the most action inside your loader. The inside of the feedneck isn't necessary, nor is the inside of the shells. I'm just talking a really stupidly thin coat across the feed tray, cone and impeller. After that leave it and walk away. Simple hey? Give it 24 to 48hrs. On returning to it if you so wish to you can take a dry piece of kitchen roll and lightly rub it over the surfaces you applied the lube to. Chances are you'll get a minuscule amount come off on to the piece of roll at most if you've done as instructed and only used a small amount of lube. Don't go Mr Muscle on it though, you just want to very lightly rub it. Annnnnnnd that's it. Tickety boo. Done.
See the plastic inside your loader like all materials is porous. On a micro-fractional level there are very small voids on the surface of the material. When you applied the lube, on a microscopic level you applied it into and over these small voids (almost like a plasterer applying a smooth final skim coat). The lube leaves the finest of films over the plastic surface reducing friction and in turn allowing the drive assembly to feed at it's optimum speed. The problem with mine was the cleaning I done. Previously it had a fine film of paint residue which aided in the prevention of friction, the moment I done completed the thorough cleaning session it essentially stripped the plastic of what was effectively an anti-friction coat, even on a very fine level. You'll find that the lube will work a treat and because it's so scarcely applied to the feed system it won't even transfer to the balls (be them reballs or paintballs) in a way you'll be able to see or feel. Alternatively you can do the same with paintball paint. Again, just use the smallest amount on your finger and apply it accordingly. Same rules. If you use only very small amounts it'll do your loader and gun no harm at all, if anything it'll prevent strain on the motor.
So yeah, there you go! Problem solved and all is well with the cosmos!
Barrel Wear and Reballs
Mike recently brought it to our attention that the inside of his shaft4 .685 bore back was showing signs of wear and rub due to using Reballs in a smaller sized barrel bore. Luckily he managed to polish out most of the scoring and any wear but obviously we don't want this to happen to anyone, let alone those whom we play along side regularly and have a lot of respect for. So to prevent any nasties happening to kit we can offer you the following tips.
When shooting Reballs through your pride and joy we suggest using an older barrel if you have one. Even an older back or insert will suffice.
Failing that or if you prefer to, a larger bore size will work adequately. It's worth noting that anything smaller than .693 will begin to show signs of use after a while, so stick to .693, .695, .697 or specially designed reball backs if you have them.
Because of the close proximity of the games we play your accuracy is only marginally affected by the size increase of barrel bore sizes. If your marker's setup is correct you shouldn't have any trouble laning a relatively tight stream across the court with no problems. Because of the nature of our matches, accuracy through volume is the best means of making that all important hit anyway, even back players can engage in some close gunfights without having to lane an overly large distance or making those impossible shots possible (i.e. successfully shooting a stud of a boot from 55ft across the field that's tauntingly sticking out from the back left)
Jonny here! How's tricks you lovely bunch? Originally this was a tip on hopper jams but it seemed fitting to use it as a general compilation of tips by our regular players. If anyone has any ideas they'd like to share in future by all means post up below, if the group like it I'll make a point of editing this original post to include said tip.
Thankies folks, Jonny
Hopper/Loader Jamming?
The last few Reball sessions a couple of us experienced some serious jamming problems with our loaders. If you happen to have any trouble with reballs (or cheap paint for that matter) feeding slow or jamming the following is a good option.
When you're off the court or field take a pea sized amount of gun lube on your finger (I'm talking the smallest amount will suffice, like... a midget garden pea amount). Evenly rub it over the surfaces which see the most action inside your loader. The inside of the feedneck isn't necessary, nor is the inside of the shells. I'm just talking a really stupidly thin coat across the feed tray, cone and impeller. After that leave it and walk away. Simple hey? Give it 24 to 48hrs. On returning to it if you so wish to you can take a dry piece of kitchen roll and lightly rub it over the surfaces you applied the lube to. Chances are you'll get a minuscule amount come off on to the piece of roll at most if you've done as instructed and only used a small amount of lube. Don't go Mr Muscle on it though, you just want to very lightly rub it. Annnnnnnd that's it. Tickety boo. Done.
See the plastic inside your loader like all materials is porous. On a micro-fractional level there are very small voids on the surface of the material. When you applied the lube, on a microscopic level you applied it into and over these small voids (almost like a plasterer applying a smooth final skim coat). The lube leaves the finest of films over the plastic surface reducing friction and in turn allowing the drive assembly to feed at it's optimum speed. The problem with mine was the cleaning I done. Previously it had a fine film of paint residue which aided in the prevention of friction, the moment I done completed the thorough cleaning session it essentially stripped the plastic of what was effectively an anti-friction coat, even on a very fine level. You'll find that the lube will work a treat and because it's so scarcely applied to the feed system it won't even transfer to the balls (be them reballs or paintballs) in a way you'll be able to see or feel. Alternatively you can do the same with paintball paint. Again, just use the smallest amount on your finger and apply it accordingly. Same rules. If you use only very small amounts it'll do your loader and gun no harm at all, if anything it'll prevent strain on the motor.
So yeah, there you go! Problem solved and all is well with the cosmos!
Barrel Wear and Reballs
Mike recently brought it to our attention that the inside of his shaft4 .685 bore back was showing signs of wear and rub due to using Reballs in a smaller sized barrel bore. Luckily he managed to polish out most of the scoring and any wear but obviously we don't want this to happen to anyone, let alone those whom we play along side regularly and have a lot of respect for. So to prevent any nasties happening to kit we can offer you the following tips.
When shooting Reballs through your pride and joy we suggest using an older barrel if you have one. Even an older back or insert will suffice.
Failing that or if you prefer to, a larger bore size will work adequately. It's worth noting that anything smaller than .693 will begin to show signs of use after a while, so stick to .693, .695, .697 or specially designed reball backs if you have them.
Because of the close proximity of the games we play your accuracy is only marginally affected by the size increase of barrel bore sizes. If your marker's setup is correct you shouldn't have any trouble laning a relatively tight stream across the court with no problems. Because of the nature of our matches, accuracy through volume is the best means of making that all important hit anyway, even back players can engage in some close gunfights without having to lane an overly large distance or making those impossible shots possible (i.e. successfully shooting a stud of a boot from 55ft across the field that's tauntingly sticking out from the back left)
